When Sir Chris Bonington, the legendary British mountaineer turned 90, on Tuesday, August 6th, he marked the occasion with a promise to fulfil a vow made to his late friend and climbing partner, Doug Scott. No longer able to scale the world’s highest peaks, Bonington has committed to supporting a project dear to Doug’s heart—the restoration of the Sherpa Heritage House in Nepal, which suffered significant damage in an earthquake nine years ago.
He is currently in his 90s and has been climbing for more than 70 years. He has led some of Britain’s most famous expeditions to the Himalayas and around the world’s great mountain ranges, bringing together a cast of some of the most colorful figures in British climbing over the past 50 years. He has also completed numerous first ascents in the Alps and beyond.
Like many British climbers, Sir Chris got his start in mountaineering on Snowdon when he was sixteen years old. He and his schoolmate Anton hitched a ride up to Wales, where they discovered the country’s tallest mountain covered in winter snow. They followed two men with ice axes up the Pyg Track despite their lack of equipment and experience since they appeared to know what they were doing. All four were almost avalanched halfway up, and Chris and Anton followed suit when the two leads turned around and started to descend.
They didn’t even know rock climbing existed until they heard some people discussing it back at their hotel that night. For Chris, it was the most fun thing he had ever done in his life, but Anton had had enough and hitched home the next day, never to step foot on a mountain again. At Harrison Rocks, a sandstone crag in the countryside close to London, he joined a rock climbing group and, well, let’s just say, he became really good at it.
After a few years, Chris enlisted in the army and was assigned to a location in continental Europe when he made the decision to sneak away for a climb in the Alps. In order to get a route recommendation, he wrote to a climber he knew. Chris didn’t explicitly state it, but we can presume that by this time he must have gained some climbing experience and a reputation because the climber he wrote to was none other than the legendary Scottish winter mountaineer Hamish MacInnes, who asked Chris to accompany him on a climb of the North Face of the Eiger.
Sir Chris Bonington, a name synonymous with mountaineering excellence, has a career that began in the 1950s. His adventures have included first ascents and major expeditions across the globe, making him not just a national but an international icon in the climbing community. His long-standing relationship with Berghaus spans 40 years, where he served as an athlete, ambassador, and product consultant. Additionally, he has been deeply involved with numerous organizations, including the British Mountaineering Council and the Outward Bound Trust. In honor of his 90th birthday, Berghaus created a special edition of its iconic Trango jacket for him, celebrating his life and achievements in the serene Lake District of Cumbria.
Behind the titles and accolades lies a man with a simple love for climbing. Picture a young, lanky, toothy-grinned Chris Bonington in 1951, stepping onto his first climb with a quiet confidence and an insatiable drive. This essence has remained, defining him not by his titles like “Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL,” but simply as “Chris.”
Bonington’s climbing resume is extraordinary. He organized, led, and participated in expeditions that changed mountaineering. From the Central Pillar of Freney on Mont Blanc in 1961 to the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia in 1963, where he narrowly escaped death in a rappelling accident, his journey through the ’70s was particularly fruitful. His Himalayan conquests included first ascents of Brammah, Changabang, Baintha Brakk, Kongur Tagh, and the South Face of Annapurna.
As the ’80s dawned, Bonington adapted to the changing ethos of mountaineering, moving from large expeditions to smaller, more alpine-style ascents. One of his cherished climbs was the 1983 ascent of Shivling’s West Summit, which he described with joy as “five days up in Alpine style, one day down, very committing, a beautiful sharp pointed peak.”
Who is Chris Bonington?
Sir Chris Bonington, born Christian John Storey Bonington on August 6, 1934, in Hampstead, London, is one of Britain’s most celebrated mountaineers, writers, and adventurers. His life’s work spans over seven decades and includes leadership in some of the most audacious climbing expeditions in history, with a particular focus on the Himalayan region.
Bonington’s love for mountaineering sparked at the age of 16 in 1951, an interest that would define his life. After attending University College School and failing to secure a place at university, he joined the British Army, serving in the Royal Tank Regiment and later at the Army Outward Bound School as a mountaineering instructor. His military career provided him with discipline and a sense of adventure, setting the stage for his future exploits.
Bonington’s personal life has been marked by both joy and tragedy. He married Wendy Marchant in 1962, with whom he had three sons, one of whom, Conrad, tragically died at two years old. After Wendy’s death from motor neurone disease, he found love again with Loreto McNaught-Davis, whom he married in 2016. His contributions to mountaineering earned him numerous awards, including a knighthood in 1996 for services to mountaineering, a CBE in 1976, and the Founder’s Medal of the Royal Geographical Society in 1974.
Bonington’s life was not without sorrow. He lost many climbing partners like Ian Clough, Mick Burke, Nick Estcourt, Peter Boardman, and Joe Tasker in the mountains. Personally, the loss of his two-year-old son in a drowning accident and his wife to Motor Neurone Disease in 2014 after 52 years of marriage added to his grief.
Despite these tragedies, Bonington’s passion for the mountains never waned. His contributions to climbing were recognized with numerous awards, including the Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement in 2015, and he has penned 17 books on his adventures. His commitment to the mountains also extends to conservation and community support, particularly through his work with Community Action Nepal (CAN), founded by Doug Scott.
Pioneering Ascents
Bonington’s climbing career is marked by numerous first ascents that have become legendary in the mountaineering world. His early achievements include the first British ascent of the North Wall of the Eiger in 1962, a daunting challenge that solidified his reputation. He led the expedition that made the first ascent of the South Face of Annapurna in 1970, which was considered the biggest and most difficult climb in the Himalaya at that time. Perhaps one of his most notable achievements was leading the successful 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition, putting four climbers on the summit, including Doug Scott and Dougal Haston. Bonington himself summited Everest in 1985 at the age of 50, making him one of the oldest climbers to achieve this at the time.
Although not always reaching the summit himself, Bonington’s priority was always the expedition’s success and harmony. He finally summited Everest in 1985 at age 50, becoming the oldest person to do so at the time.
Preserving Sherpa Culture
The Sherpa Heritage House project, now under CAN’s wing, aims to not only restore but transform the ancestral home of Pertemba Sherpa into a museum, gallery, and tea house, enhancing local economic prospects. Sir Chris, as a patron, pledges to see this project through, emphasizing the importance of preserving Sherpa culture amidst the modern changes in mountaineering.
Expedition Leader and Author
Beyond climbing, Bonington’s leadership qualities were evident in his role as an expedition leader. His ability to organize and inspire teams through harsh conditions contributed significantly to his successes. His literary contributions are equally impressive, with 17 books to his name, including autobiographies and detailed accounts of his expeditions, providing insights into the life of a mountaineer. His works like “I Chose to Climb” and “The Everest Years” have become classics in mountain literature.
Later Years and Legacy
Even into his 80s, Bonington has not ceased his adventures. He celebrated his 80th birthday by climbing the Old Man of Hoy, a sea stack off Scotland’s coast that he first ascended in 1966. His ongoing involvement with mountaineering includes supporting and mentoring younger climbers and contributing to charities focused on outdoor education and adventure. His legacy is not just in the peaks he has conquered but in the inspiration he provides for adventurers to push their boundaries while respecting the natural world.
Reflecting on his 90th birthday, Bonington acknowledges the vast changes he’s witnessed and remains grateful for a life so richly spent in the company of mountains and friends. His ongoing support for CAN and the Sherpa community is a testament to his enduring spirit of adventure and commitment to giving back.
Joining in Celebration
Sir Chris Bonington’s life is a testament to human endurance, leadership, and the relentless pursuit of adventure. His achievements have not only advanced mountaineering but have also captured the imagination of those who dream of heights, both literal and metaphorical. His story continues to inspire a new generation of climbers to look up at the mountains, not just to conquer them, but to understand and appreciate their majesty. For those inspired by Sir Chris’s journey and wishing to contribute to his latest adventure, donations can be made to CAN through their website, celebrating not just a birthday, but a legacy of climbing, friendship, and cultural preservation.
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