Doug Scott Tribute: The first Englishman to summit Mount Everest

Doug Scott breathed his last exactly 4 years ago, on December 7, 2020, and this is a tribute to one of the most accomplished British climbers who sadly, p[assed away at the age of 79. His notable achievements and records include ascending Everest in 1975 (new route), Kangchenjunga (new route), Nuptse (new route) in 1979, and Shisha Pangma (new route) in 1982, and scaling Broad Peak in 1983. Among his many feats, he participated in the first ascents of Changabang (6864 m) in 1974 and Baintha Brakk (“Ogre,” 7285 m) in 1977. In the year 1995, he completed the Carstensz-version of the Seven Summits.

Doug Scott climbing Everest — Doug Scott climbing Mount Everest

Doug Scott was an iconic figure in the world of mountaineering, known not only for his extraordinary climbing achievements but also for his profound humanitarian work, particularly in Nepal. Born on May 29, 1941, in Nottingham, England, Scott’s life was an adventure that spanned from British classrooms to the highest peaks of the world. He was the first Briton to summit Everest via its challenging South-West Face in 1975, a feat accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, showcasing his commitment to climbing in its purest form, known as Alpine style. His climbing career included 45 expeditions to Asia’s high mountains, achieving the summit of 40 peaks, with many first ascents. Beyond climbing, Doug dedicated much of his life to charity, particularly in Nepal, where he founded Community Action Nepal (CAN) to improve the lives of mountain communities. His life was also marked by a deep spiritual journey, influenced by Buddhism, which shaped his approach to both climbing and charity work.

Who was Doug Scott?

Doug Scott was a legendary mountaineer and author from England. He gained fame for his role in the first successful ascent of Everest’s South-West Face in 1975. His career involved numerous first ascents across Asia, where he embraced the minimalist approach of Alpine-style climbing, emphasizing skill, endurance, and minimal gear. Diagnosed with cancer in 2020, he passed away later that year, leaving behind a legacy in mountaineering and humanitarian work.

Mountaineering

Doug was known for his physical and mental resilience, which was dramatically demonstrated when he broke both legs on the descent from the Ogre in the Karakoram but still managed to crawl back to base camp. His mountaineering achievements include summits on all seven continents, illustrating his versatility and commitment to the sport. His approach to climbing was not just about reaching the top but doing so in a way that was respectful to the mountain and the environment, often without the use of artificial aids like oxygen or fixed ropes.

The First Summit of Everest by a British

In 1975, Doug Scott, along with Dougal Haston, summited Everest via the South-West Face, which was then one of the most formidable routes. Their climb was fraught with challenges, including equipment failures and harsh weather, but their success made history as they became the first British climbers to reach the top from this side. Their descent was equally perilous, spending a night out at extreme altitude without oxygen, an experience that underscored Scott’s extraordinary endurance.

Charity Work in Nepal

Post-climbing career, Scott’s focus shifted significantly towards philanthropy. He founded Community Action Nepal in 1989, aiming to give back to the communities that had supported his climbing ventures. CAN focused on building schools, health posts, and rescue shelters, particularly after natural disasters like earthquakes. Scott’s efforts extended to improving labor conditions in the trekking industry through Community Action Treks, promoting responsible tourism.

Volunteering

Doug Scott was deeply involved in the mountaineering community beyond his personal climbs. He held numerous roles, from being president of the Alpine Club to serving on various committees dedicated to climbing and outdoor education. His volunteering efforts included advocacy for traditional climbing values and conservation, ensuring that future generations could enjoy the mountains responsibly.